Tuesday, November 17, 2015

People are People

The longer I am here, the more I am reminded that, in the end, people are people.  We may have cultural differences, different ways of doing things, different means, different ways of expressing ourselves – but we are overwhelmingly alike.  I think this is one of the primary lessons of being a Peace Corps Volunteer – or any experience that immerses you in a foreign context.

In the beginning, first arriving in Quebrada Pastor, I would often complain with other Volunteers about the quirks and challenging of living in a Ngöbe community.  But now, having adjusted to the superficial things (like the food we eat, differences in language, emotional expression), and being able to pick about the differences based on context, opportunity, and privilege (like education, exposure to other people, ability to travel, abundance of choice, managing money, perspective and understanding of health, handling unpredictability) – in the end, a lot of the challenges and issues that we face are universal.  So many of these obstacles to my work here are just people issues.

There is the same kind of range in personalities, in attitudes, in values, and in abilities in this community as there is in any other.  Same characters, different context.  Some people are leaders, some people are responsible and dependable and honor their commitments.  Some people care about the greater good, take an interest in the outside world, are always helping others, and share what they have.  Some people love being the center of attention.  Some people love taking all the credit.  Some people only look out for themselves and their closest kin.  Some people are always in squabbles with others, always causing drama.  Some people never show up when they say they are going to, even if they are really fun to be around and want to like them.  Some people wait and watch and won’t participate until someone else is courageous enough to make the first move to act.  Some people are noisy obnoxious neighbors.  Lots of people look to blame someone else and won’t take responsibility for things going wrong.  Or won’t even put themselves in a position of responsibility in the first place.  And everybody likes getting free stuff.

That all sounds like people I’ve known all my life.  And so the things that are most frustrating are the same frustrations as always.

But I do enjoy the unique position here of being able to experience and observe all of this, partly as an insider and partly as an outsider.  And it is basically my job to figure out how to deal with all these different types of people.  And the context is different enough that I actually have to think carefully about whether someone’s behavior reflects a cultural difference, a difference in context, or just their personality.

I’ve been holding a Water Committee Seminar almost every weekend since I got back from America.  The primary purpose of the Seminar is to teach good aqueduct management, to build capacity within the new Water Committees that have been formed in anticipation of the aqueduct project for which I have applied for funding (we hope to build two separate aqueducts – one to serve the 7 houses of the Santos family – Ángel’s family – and one for the 15 houses of the Beker family, on a different hill).  The Seminar covers the basic connection between water and health (like the importance of good water storage and treatment) how to manage a Water Committee (running good meetings, working as a team, managing funds), and how to maintain and operate an aqueduct (the technical details).  So far we’re just over halfway done.

I also invited the other four existing Water Committees in the hope that they can help teach the new Committees about their successes and failures and offer the opportunity to increase their own capacity.  One Committee – the best-managed one in the community, from what I can tell – has been regularly attending and proved useful in this.

I was really hoping that the Water Committee for the school-and-center-of-town aqueduct would also attend.  I have been wanting, since my arrival, to improve the functioning of their Committee.  Especially now, as we anticipate making some physical improvements to the system during school vacation, this seems like a good idea.  However, no one has yet attended a session.

One of the most striking areas for improvement in this particular Committee is exactly what we talked about in the last two days of the Seminar – working together productively as a team.  Meetings are often poorly run, work days are filled with interpersonal conflict, and when people see the lack of participation and motivation of others, it further demotivates everyone’s sense of responsibility.  Everyone just complains about everyone else shirking on their jobs and shifts blame to someone else.  No one wants to be on the Committee because it is such a thankless job.

And yet, this is the aqueduct that supplies both the school of 300 students and 30 houses with water, which has existed since 2002 when the government built it.  Somehow the Water Committee has been able to keep it running this long, which is actually quite impressive.  Once in a while, somebody probably ought to recognize them for that.  And, after all, it is important work: the students need water during the day at school, so everyone in the community – not just the homeowners who are also users – depends on the function of this aqueduct.  And everyone agrees that it’s important.

If only the members of the Water Committee had been attending the Seminar.  We could have talked about all of that.  We could have talked about the importance of positive communication, how providing positive feedback and reinforcement an appreciation can motivate people to keep working in their positions, to take pride in their responsibilities.  How having a well-run meeting means that no one will be wasting their time, so meetings do not have to be a dreaded thing to be avoided.  How rules and agendas make that easier and more possible to achieve.  How everyone needs to play their role on the team to share the load and solve complex problems, how no one can do it alone, but everyone working together make it possible.  If only they were willing to talk about these things.

And then I realize that, even though these seem like really simple and obvious solutions, these kinds of problems – lack of responsibility, wasting time, weak motivation – plague organizations and places of work everywhere, for the same reasons.  People are people, after all.  But people are also capable of fixing these things, with a bit of effort and a bit of desire.  I haven’t given up hope on my people yet.

Pictures:

It’s Panamanian holiday month!  Starting off with Independence from Colombia day, with a parade down the highway through Quebrada Pastor.



Visit to Renacimiento, the neighboring community, to spend Flag Day with Chelsea, my new closest Volunteer.  Apparently one of the traditions is oiling up a smoothed-down bark-less tree and telling the kids if they can get to the top they can keep the money in the bag up there.

Just another gorgeous day.  Thanks to El Niño (I’ve been told), it has been unusually and unseasonably dry in the Bocas del Toro province – several weeks now with little rain (when we are used to it raining at least every three days).  It’s been so dry that the mud has all but disappeared – once you start seeing cracks in the earth, you know the weather is being weird.


Water Committee Seminar – giving presentations about the importance of the protecting the watershed, thinking about how we work based on our values, and playing a teamwork-themed icebreaker.





New Adventures!  Gorgeous hike through the jungle 3 hours to Quebrada Pueblo, home of new Environmental Health Volunteer Saswe, to do a safety inspection on her new house.


Attending the Bocas Day parade with the family, and a trip to the beach!




Birthday party at Ema’s house – brought my nagua so that I would fit in with the rest of the ladies.




Sunday, November 1, 2015

Reflections

I’ve avoided writing this post for a while.  First it was because I thought it needed to be some kind of summary of the last year here in Quebrada Pastor, in preparation for returning to America for a vacation.  Then, of course, I was in America for a couple weeks – which was lovely, thanks to my family and all the friends I was able to visit! – and then, I thought I needed to somehow come up with a comparison of America and Panamá to further enhance my reflection on the last year.

So I spent some time rereading my journals, looking over my first blog posts.  And thinking about (rather, living) the culture shock – both of returning to America, then of returning to Quebrada Pastor. 

Some reflections about what has changed – or maybe stayed the same – in the last year:

Travel between worlds:

Journal Entry, 8/11/14
There is something very bizarre about traveling between worlds.  This the third time during training that we have left the “developed” world to go to the “undeveloped” world and then returned, and every time is jarring.  (Of course it is also jarring to go to Panamá City from Santa Rita, but less so.)  There’s the confusion about which is actually the real world, which is actually home (not to mention the gastrointestinal confusion every time – which is never helped by the binging on rich dairy food and the like upon return).  And we find ourselves giggling at the ridiculousness of having emerged from the campo to eat a McFlurry, while surrounded by city folk no doubt perturbed by the obnoxious childlike gringos, yet who don’t even know there are places in their country without a place to poop.  We occupy a very strange role in Panamá.  And we cope with it by being five-year-olds.

This is still true.  The shock of going back and forth is less – I’ve become accustomed to being a bridge.  I’m a bridge when I’m here in Quebrada Pastor, introducing visitors to my home, and talking about America.  I’m a bridge when I translate for visitors throughout Panama, and when I tell Panamanians about what I do, about parts of their own country that they never see.  I’m a bridge when I return to America with my pictures and my stories.  And, of course, I’m supposed to be a bridge writing this blog.  (The part about being a giddy 5-year-old with my ice cream: definitely still true.)

About Language:

Journal Entry, 6/27/14
Constructing a sentence was much like making it out of fridge magnet words – sometimes the right word takes a while to look for on the fridge, other times you can’t find it at all, so you piece together a similar alternative; sometimes the verb isn’t conjugated quite right, but the meaning still comes across.  Sometimes the whole sentence just falls apart and gets knocked off the fridge.

While I feel a lot more comfortable speaking Spanish, having more control over the language, I do still make mistakes.  And there are those times when the words have been re-coded in Spanish in my brain, so it takes a moment to remember them in English – the reverse problem from this journal entry!

All of the emotions:

Journal Entry, 9/14/14
I wonder when I will stop feeling obligated to begin each entry referring to a roller coaster.  Or when I will quit feeling like I’m on a roller coaster.  A Panamá roller coaster, because the rules are different and they let screaming babies ride and they are sitting all around me.

If I need to sum up my service in a few words, they usually are: “It’s a roller coaster, but one I like riding.”  Even though the screaming babies are still here.

Learning “patience and flexibility”:

Journal Entry, 10/24/14
Sometimes Panamá decides that it is not doing a good enough, fast enough, concentrated enough, impactful enough job of teaching me patience and flexibility.  So it pulls weeks like this out of its butt to remind me that I still haven’t learned “tranquilo” quite well enough.

In direct contrast to this entry a week ago, I have definitely spent the last week feeling pretty “tranquila.”  Yes, I have been preparing to give a very training-intensive Water Committee Seminar, but I have also so much more easily taken in stride the delays and setbacks – including everyone’s prioritizing of holiday preparations above my work (which is what frustrated me so much last year).

Journal Entry, 11/13/14
Just realized that it might be kind of hard going back.  We have such an incredible amount of freedom here. […] The thing is, not many jobs have that kind of flexibility – to just take off and spend the afternoon writing a blog post and stuff.  Nor do many jobs have this kind of variety of work – and I feel very busy and very occupied and productive all the time.  Yeah, I can see how going back could be hard.

And, having had a little taste of going back, even for a brief couple of weeks (without even doing any work!), that preoccupation settles even more firmly in the back of my mind…

Feelings of nostalgia:

Journal Entry, 11/21/14
On Saturday, I was given an apple soda.  The taste of apple surprised me – I was anticipating coffee.  It further surprised me because, well, apples aren’t from here.  Eating an apple in Panamá is as indulgent as eating a banana in the US – incredible transportation costs.  And the taste brought me back to the US, in the fall, as it gets cold, drinking hot apple cider.  Trees changing color.  Crisp cool air.  Such nostalgia.

And finally, I had to opportunity to drink some hot apple cider.  To ride a bike through the changing leaves.  To go apple picking.  And it was lovely.


I also looked through some old blog posts, like High Maintenance and Weird Things About Panamá.  Reflecting back on those thoughts, and how I feel about them now:

I still love eating eggs.  It’s great having control over my food situation, cooking all the vegetables I can get my hands on (before they go bad, lacking refrigeration).  I still love getting gifts of fruit.  I definitely do not eat all the rice (or boiled green bananas) that I’m served.  I now outright refuse to eat pifa (an advantage of having been here a while, I can politely refuse things I can’t stand) as well as canned sardines.  I no longer dream about food, but I do occasionally indulge in the Peace Corps pastime of “food porn” – discussing the most delicious things we can think of or have made or want to make.

I have become so good at eating chicken necks (as I found myself boasting constantly in America).  The key is to pull apart each of the vertebra and suck on them individually – that way you get all of the meat off it.  I’m still positive there is no meat on chicken feet.  Definitely always prefer the chicken necks.  Well, unless you can get the good stuff.

Communication is still a delicate balance of having enough phone money, cell service, phone battery, and time to talk – all at once.  But I’m much better at managing it, which makes life so much easier.  My cell phone is my one source of connection to the world outside of Quebrada Pastor – so even though many times the service and call quality is crummy, and perpetually dropping calls can be frustrating, I can’t get upset about it – because I depend on that connection so much.  But it was really nice not to have to worry about any of that for two weeks in America.

I finally understand summer in Bocas.  It does – actually – dry up to the point that the ground is dry, everywhere, even in the muckiest, swampiest places, for a few weeks.  That’s the closest we get here.

And I still hate the sound of giant trucks engine braking right in front of my house.

I quit smashing cockroaches regularly.  I used to come back to my host family’s house in the evening, open the door to my room, and start crushing every scuttling critter with my Chacos until they all disappeared.  But I could never win.  They would always come back.  Finally, I just let them be.  And hid everything I own in closed containers.

Wash machines are so, so nice.  So are dryers.

And, well, that’s all the more profound it’s going to get for now!  Thanks, America, it was fun.  Panamá – it’s good to be getting back to work!


Photos from some of my Panamá activities from the last month:

Celebrating Willy and Mechi’s anniversary – baked them brownies!


Still finishing up the Tank and Latrine projects from Tech Week (someday they will all be completely done).


Another visit to Ema’s house.




Still find surprises: a sloth fell out of a tree when the branch broke and was attacked by a dog!  We shooed away the dog and saw that clinging to the belly of the sloth was a little baby sloth.  Mama and baby made it – laboriously – back up into the tree without apparent harm.


Autumn leaves from Cleveland added to the collection on my wall!


Willy’s chocolate company got all geared up for Quebrada Pastor’s first ever Chocolate Festival.  I became an impromptu chocolate forest tour guide for a group of tourist visitors, there were all kinds of chocolate goods for sale, the Chocolate Queen was crowned, and there were soccer games and a dance… Willy considers it a great success, for publicity and the enjoyment of all.  A few Volunteers visited and we all pretended to Miss Chocolate.



Finally started a Water Committee Seminar – training the new Water Committees who are preparing to build and aqueduct next year, as well as offering training to the current Water Committees for existing aqueducts.  The first day (of six) was a great success!  Everyone had fun – especially the icebreakers and the sociodramas, shown here.